Is the multiplicity of a same local food the consequence of a lack of regulation or the true nature of Localized Agri-Food Systems?: The case of dry-cured ham in Corsica

Résumé En

The aim of this paper is to look into the various labels and names sealed on Corsican drycured ham in order to investigate the coexistence dynamics of food heritage strategies beyond Geographical Indications (GIs) application processes. We focus on dry-cured ham in order to describe the shaping and reshaping of a common consumer item into a top-quality product. Throughout a retrospective analysis of the localized agri-food system built around this specific product since the 1970s, we offer an in-depth description of phenomena frequently observed around food products in Mediterranean area: the emergence of innovation based on tradition and the creation of added-value out of overlooked resources. Nevertheless, our case study sheds light on blind spots of SYAL scholarship. While characterizing the difficult journeys of GIs built upon Corsican deli meat, we refer to Callon's concepts of framing and overflowing (1998) and argue that the will to frame production and marketing processes finally ends in increasing their diversity. Whereas this diversity might be seen as a failure for most stakeholders, we discuss it by presenting SYALs as confrontational arenas able to bring about transformation perspectives.